Te Anau/Roadtrip/Switzerland: May

May 1

I knew the beginning to the end of my New Zealand chapter was coming to a close.  Soon I would be leaving this beautiful place and headed on yet another adventure.

I have several pictures in my phone that replicate the image below.  There were times that I would capture an image spontaneously, braking without thought while biking, thinking that if I took a picture it would also capture the emotions that were bursting within.  While I’m not sure what inspired me to take the photo below, I know that I admired the scenery, the freedom I felt while biking, the daily accomplishment of keeping my body fit, and also the very experience I was living.  You probably wouldn’t get all of that from this photo, but I imagine these feelings and thoughts are what provoked this picture during my morning bike ride commute to work.

The Milford Highway that led me and so many others to THE Fiordland Lodge.

May 3- 4

I arrived in Te Anau on December 19, 2017, and since that day, the Kepler Mountains were always in my sight…  Really, you could see the Kepler mountain range from our deck.  Finally, Kristie and I would be hiking the Kepler Track!  Starting May, the track goes “off-season” which means the huts are reduced to just $20/night compared to the $50 or $70 normally charged, no electricity, less rangers, and riskier hiking depending on weather conditions.  Luckily for us, the crossing was open and the weather was working with us.  We couldn’t have asked for a better two days to complete the track.

First day: Tom dropped Kristie and I off at the Kepler Control Gates where we started our journey.  We hiked for approximately 3.5 hours and hiked about 8.5 miles.  My optimism kept Kristie and I going that day as we marched up the mountain.  I can say this now because Kristie’s optimism kept us going the following day- and that was 14 hours of hiking.  Once we reached the top of the mountain, we were greeted with an up-close sight that we had viewed from our Moana House for so long.  From down below, there is line that defines the top part of the mountain which is  yellow/greenery.  When you’re telling Te Anau visitors where Kepler is, you just tell them to look for the yellow top mountain and that’s Kepler.  We knew we were close once we saw the yellow/green tussocks, we were practically skipping to the Luxmore Hut we were so happy.

We stayed the night in the hut and went to bed early.  We were to be up by 5:00a to catch the sunrise at Mount Kepler (the summit) the following day.  Not only that, but we needed to walk about a million miles so we could get home at a decent hour.

We reached the tussocks, now Kristie is pointing towards Fiordland Lodge.
We were so happy at this point!

Luxmore Hut!
Kristie making us some din din.
A view outside of the Luxmore Hut window.

Second day: Without trouble, Kristie and I got up early and anxiously started our second day of hiking the Kepler.  At least I was anxious… I knew there would be tough hills to climb before we would make our descent. We were a little late (go figure) to the summit to catch the sunrise, but we certainly didn’t miss out on its beauty during the hike.  Once we reached the summit, we took in the view for fifteen minutes, but then it was time to get moving.  We knew we had a long day ahead of us. While the views were spectacular, they also made me a little sick being so high.  Eventually with Kristie’s optimistic words and my imagination to finish the track, we got through my illness.   I think it ended once we got to the crossing.  Like the rest of the track, this is a picturesque view… Reminds me of the Great Wall of China. I don’t think I need to explain once you see the photos. The week prior, this part of the track was closed due to snow and icy conditions.   Lucky us that we had the sun on our side to melt the snow and ice away.

After climbing up and down, it was time to look for “the stairs” Marco was so worried about.  Before I left, he told me “When you get to the stairs, just shut up for five minutes and concentrate on what you’re doing.”  Kristie and I got to a set of ten stairs or so and at that point I thought that Marco was a little dramatic for telling me to concentrate while walking (family, be quiet.).  Less than a kilometer later, we got to “the stairs”, Kristie and I didn’t talk for five minutes.  These stairs basically bring you straight down the side of the mountain without railings.  It is dangerous if you are not paying attention… But once you’re down the stairs, you make your way down several switchbacks to get to even ground.

At the top of the switchbacks, a makeshift poster read that the Iris Burn Hut was at marker 12 or something… We were at marker 43.  We thought “no big deal”.  The markers were so spread out that we had such a skewed estimate of when we thought we were going to get to our exit.  It was a little exhausting on our mental state.  Eventually we got to the Iris Burn Hut and were able to give our legs a break.

Again, we had to hurry up as the sun was starting to set.  We had already traveled 14.6 km (9 miles), and still had 22.2 km (13.8 miles) to go, thankfully the hardest part was over.  We were cursing the last 3 km of our journey though.  My legs were on autopilot, wobbling while ascending and slamming down while descending any hills we came across.  We finally arrived at Rainbow Reach where Tom was going to pick us up- he was on standby.  Kristie called him and within a moment, we saw Tom’s headlights.  Luckily I dared not to sit as I knew it would be impossible for me to get up.  Tom grabbed our bags as Kristie and I took a seat in his Subaru.   On the drive back to the house I couldn’t focus on the conversation, only on my throbbing knees and tired mental state. I felt like I had been rescued, which truthfully, I think I was.  My legs were devastated.  At the same time, my grin started to peek.  Kristie and I just completed a challenging fete, the Kepler.  Thirty-one miles in less than two days.  Doesn’t sound like a lot, but when you have a pack on your back while going up/down mountains, it becomes quite the challenge.

That was THE best sleep I had ever gotten that night.

Rise and shine!  The sun is a comin’!

We had just left and I already felt a little winded… I knew it was going to be a long day.

We were impressed with the snow.
Look at those mountains.
Started from the bottom, now we’re here ~ Drake.  We made it to the summit.
That duct tape made those boots last, let me tell you.
Can you spot the Kristie?
Great Wall of China…???

No caption needed.

The beginning to “the stairs”.

I love this photo!

Love me some NZ Bush

May 5

The next morning I woke up stiff.  Luckily Kristie let me use her car so I could get to work.  Needless to say, the bike was not calling my name.  I got to work and was told I didn’t need to stay as another housekeeper was already there and there wasn’t too much work to be done.   I happily limped back to the car and headed back to the Moana House.

Once I got home, Kristie was up so we enjoyed a celebratory cup of instant coffee.  I’ll never forget this next day and the feeling of accomplishment.  Look how happy my eyes were.

May 8-9

Milford Sound is beautiful, but holy moly is it small in comparison to Doubtful Sound. Raphi and I had the opportunity to go on the Overnight Doubtful Sound Cruise.  We were really lucky as not everyone had the same opportunity.

In general, people tend to see Milford Sound since its easy to access.  In order for us to get to Doubtful Sound, we had to take a shuttle to Manapouri, a ferry to get near the sound, then we had to take another shuttle to get even closer to the sound, get off the shuttle to  literally walk over a bridge only to get into yet ANOTHER shuttle, which THEN led us to the ship.  Not only was the day filled with transport, the weather was a bit wild.  Once we got to the ship, Mother Nature had a meltdown.  Crazy winds and rain fell upon us.  After she let her emotion go, she calmed down quite a bit.  She just left a chilly, damp, but calm breeze in the air which allowed us to take a kayak trip in one of the arms of the sound.  It was really nice.

Raphi and I enjoyed the cruise as we got to see several rainbows and dramatic scenes throughout the day.  We even met a couple of German girls that ended up staying at our house for a night a couple days later.

May 13

Tom and I rarely hung out just us, but on this night we did.  I would be leaving Te Anau in two days so we enjoyed a drink together at The Moose!

A coworker of his (he also worked at The Moose) bought him a shot, Tom didn’t know it had green food coloring in it.

May 14

Last day working and last day that I would be hanging out with my Maisy girl, the lodge dog!  Miss my working buddy.   Lei also came over to say her goodbyes, although I don’t think I’ve seen her for the last time.  Finished the night with my roommates playing none other than our favorite game, Uno.

Maisy Girl.
My Lei.
Left to right: Me, Tom, Kristie, and Raphi

May 15-17: Christchurch

Welp, the following morning Tom and Kristie went with me to get some coffee from the Sandfly for the last time and sent me on my way.  I even got to say goodbye to Raphi since she was working at the Sandfly that morning.

The first stop on my adventure to the top of NZ was Christchurch.  I didn’t have too many plans there, but I know I wanted to do zip-lining, the Gondola, and Quake City.  Unfortunately not enough people signed up for zip-lining so that got cancelled and the gondola was having maintenance done.  I was able to go to Quake City and that was pretty interesting.  After the earthquakes of 2010/2011, the city had been practically demolished.  So many creative ideas were put in place to get the city going again, several pop-up events were organized to fill the holes of the city that brought the people together.  Now, as a tourist, you might not even realize the city had been turned upside down for sometime.

It’s a real nice city, with no-joke, the loveliest of people.  While I didn’t get to see/do everything I wanted, I did get to enjoy a nice flat white and pastry, walk through the art gallery, and I even met a cat that showed me some love.  I look forward to going back someday!

Outside the Art Gallery

Quake City

May 18: Kaikoura

I spent one day in Kaikoura, but I certainly made the most of it.  I decided to go on an impromptu whale watching plane ride!  We saw a Sperm Whale and a Humpback Whale.  So neat to see these magnificent creatures.  To see the whales and landscape, check out the videos below.  I also went on a date with myself… Took a lovely stroll, sat with some seals, then walked to a restaurant along the shore where I ate a delicious salad, sipped out of a glass which had some Pinot Noir in it, and indulged by getting an adult sundae for dessert.

Kaikoura used to be known for whaling; this is where they used to bring the whales 😦 Thankfully, commercial whaling ended in 1964.
I offered to take a photo of a couple, so they asked if I wanted a photo.  Sure, why not?  Would have been really cool had that camper van been mine.

Cute mailbox, aye?
Date night.

May 19: Wellington

Stayed in Wellington for a night, nothing too much to add to this date except that I picked up my rental car!  I would be driving the north island via car, by myself!  Felt so cool to be on my own, in my own car, windows down, music goin…  It had been quite some time for me.

May 20: Napier

This was a flexible, impromptu decision… I decided to go to Napier instead of trying to walk the Tongariro Crossing.  The weather wasn’t looking good so I decided to chase the sunshine on the east coast for a night instead.  Napier is a relaxing, cool, beach town.  From my airbnb, I walked into town to take in the scenery.  I spent most of the day walking around, enjoying the sunshine.

May 21: Taupo

I was in Taupo for just one night.  Before checking into my Airbnb, I went to Huka Falls.  See video below… It can fill one Olympic sized swimming pool in eleven seconds.  Pretty powerful stuff.  I also took a video of my favorite NZ bird, the Tui.  A Tui has two voice boxes which allows it to sound the way it does, two different songs.

That evening I walked into town and decided to see a movie.  It was so good that I forgot the name of it (wasn’t that good).  After my movie, I made it back to my Airbnb to get some rest as I would be heading out early the next morning.  I decided to make a detour before heading to Rotorua and stop at the Glowworm Caves.

May 22: Waitomo

I wasn’t going to do the Glowworm Caves, but then I thought I should probably make this part of my trip.  I woke up early and left Taupo for Waitomo which was a three hour drive northwest.  After the Glowworms, I would drive to Rotorua.

Hopefully I can remember this right…  These caves are family owned and have only been open to the public for a short amount of time (I can’t remember how long).  I think the experience was even more special knowing the tour guide used to play in the caves as a child.  Even though the family makes money off of visitors, I think they truly enjoy what they’re sharing.  It’s magical to see these little bugs glowing in the peer darkness.  Not only that, but the surrounding area outside the caves is just as magical and beautiful.

It was myself and four other girls, I was the second oldest.  The tour guide had me beat!  I was feeling a little old because my hip was giving me problems and I was extremely cautious while walking.  But I was lucky as I was able to fair the cave waters without injury.  The tour guide brought us to the cave which disoriented the moment we started to make steps.  Weaving through small spaces, we reached a point where he told us that our eyes would never adjust.  We were in peer, black darkness.  That was neat.  Then he brought us to a few areas where the glowworms hang out.

Glowworms create a string of sticky stuff that bugs get caught in.  Similar to that of  a spider, but their “webbing” is a bit different in appearance and consistency, but also looks beautiful.  Interesting note, a glowworm will shine brighter the hungrier it is, this attracts bugs to its light ensuring some dinner.

Once the tour was over, which lasted about two-three hours, we headed back in for some tea and biscuits.  I offered two of the girls a ride back to their hostel.  A little out of the way for me but I truly enjoyed their company, they were also extremely appreciative.

Walking towards the caves

A look inside the cave.

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Can you see the glowworms behind us?

 

#nofiler.  I LOVE NZ BUSH.

Such tight spaces… not good if your claustrophobic

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May 22-25 Rotorua

Rotorua is a super tourist town, but you have to stop there.  It”s like Wall Drug.  I look forward to going back as I didn’t get to see as much as I wanted and the weather wasn’t all too nice.

Who cares what I didn’t do or see, I did get to go to Wai-O-Tapu, go on the Redwoods Tree Walk, and drove around to see the Red and Green Lakes.  I was staying in an Airbnb where two other French men were also staying.  I was looking for some company as I’d been sightseeing by myself, I was happy to share some of these experiences with these two.

The first day I spent by myself and walked around EatStreet.  It’s a location with several different restaurants- go figure.  I decided against EatStreet and chose to eat at an Indian restaurant instead.  The following day was a bit more interesting.  I went with the two others to Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland which was cool.  I had never been to a geothermal area so it was new for me.  The smells were sometimes too much to handle, but the sights were worth it.  My favorite “pool” was called Devil’s Bath which you will see pictured below.  We spent a couple hours there then went to the Redwoods Forest to complete the tree walk.  Marco had done this walk previously and encouraged me to do it when it was nighttime, unfortunately with timing and other things to do, we three decided to do it in the late afternoon.  BUT THEN, as we were walking though, the lights turned on (also pictured below)!  I got to complete the tree walk in the daytime and nighttime.  Lucky me.  The next day was time for me to leave, but I had some time before I needed to be in Auckland so I drove around a little bit and took the view in at green/blue lakes.  These lakes are different colors due to what is located at the bottom, to see why, see picture below.

After my short drive, it was time to head to Auckland.  My last stop before I would be leaving New Zealand!  My dear roommate Kristie was flying in so I was to pick her up from the airport.

 

 

 

 

Looking down from a Redwood
These lanterns were scattered throughout the tree walk.  They lit up as we were walking!

My rental whip… Toyota Corolla.

May 25-29 Auckland

I picked Kristie up from the airport.  From there we dropped off our things at our Airbnb and scouted out a place to eat.  I have to be honest, everything was super low-key and we were just hanging around with no intentions of planning our four days together so I can’t remember everything in great detail but this is what I can remember:

We went to the mall and purchased a carry-on suitcase for me (whoo-hoo- so exciting #adulting), we drove to Mt. Eden volcanic cone where we captured great views of the city, drove hours looking for parking just to get some pho, took a ferry to Waiheke Island where we drank some wine and called Tom, and on that same evening we went out on the town since it was our last night.

I couldn’t have asked for better company other than Kristie.  Not only does she make me laugh, but shes super easygoing and fun to be around.  I got to leave New Zealand hanging out with a true Kiwi.  It was the right way to leave.

After I dropped Kristie off at the airport, it was time for me to drop off my rental car and go to the international airport because I was flying overseas baby.  Switzerland here I come!

A better view of Mt. Eden volcano cone.
Kristie on Waiheke Island.
Normal conversations with Tom
When we party, we make friends.

May 29: Zurich, Switzerland

I landed in Switzerland right around noon.  The plane rides were wonderful!  I took Qatar- their service was/is amazing!  The first flight is currently the longest plane ride in the world which is approximately seventeen hours, thats from Auckland to Doha.  Then I took another flight from Doha to Zurich which was six hours.   I took a cab ride from the aiport to the hotel where I would be meeting my pops.  MY POPS!

Ah!  I was seeing my pops!  I had been away from home for approximately six-seven months and now I was to meet my dad in another country, Switzerland of all places.  It was so nice to see a familiar face after traveling for so long.  It’s an indescribable feeling to look back on, but it was so neat!

I got a little more settled and he brought me to the nearby train station, the Zurich Train Station that is. Its huge!  Platforms galore!  It also has an indoor shopping mall beneath/beside the platforms so we walked around there for a bit.  I told him where the Victorinox Swiss Visitor Center was and we decided to hop on our very first train to Schywz.  We ate some food in a small restaurant/cafe and walked into the Victorinox Factory Store then went back to Zurich.  Pops was happy and that’s all that mattered.  I was too.  Not only was I happy, I was extremely tired.  We went back to our hotel so I could nap for a few hours.  After my nap, we went next door to a German restaurant where I ate my current  favorite soup.  Lucerne Wedding Style Soup.  Full of vegetables and a creamy broth.  Delicious!  After dinner, we went back to our hotel room to prepare for the following days.  We would be taking a four day Glacier and Bernina Express tour.  First stop Zermatt where the Matterhorn is located.

A first look at SWITZERLAND
Oh pops!  He’s mastered the selfie pose.

May 30: Zermatt

We hopped on board the Glacier Express sometime in the early morning.  We were headed for Zermatt.  Once we got into Zermatt, we dropped our things off at the hotel where we would be staying for the night.  After we got settled, we decided to take a stroll through the lovely city that is Zermatt.  It reminded me a lot of Breckenridge, small, intimately close shops- similarly quaint, yet different in what each provides its visitors.  Of course we needed to grab some grub before we really looked into the city.  Who can take in new scenery on an empty stomach?  No one.

After some food, we headed down the street towards the Matterhorn Museum.  Funny story… if you know anything about Swiss folk, they are very rule-oriented people.  The museum cost twenty Swiss francs and my twenty had a slight rip.  It was still all there, but the rip was maybe 2/3 down the bill.   The lady hesitantly reached for the twenty and said “oh, it should be fine……………………………… actually, do you want to take it next door and have the bank replace it?  Just to make sure?”   Of course I welcomed her request, and laughed as I walked away.  I was not surprised in the least and would have been disappointed had she accepted it.  I experienced the true Swiss-ness that is.  Anyways, I exchanged the bill and pops and I entered the museum.

Interesting things to read and see there.  I enjoyed looking at the progression of the hiking boot.  From plates you attached to the soles of your shoes to the lightweight (but extreme) hiking boot we wear nowadays.  It was also interesting to read about who successfully climbed the Matterhorn first and what happened.  Long story short, there were seven men who successfully made it to the summit, but on the way down, one man slipped causing four others to slip with him as they fell to their death.  The remaining three survivors were accused of cutting the rope that was attached to the others that fell.  There was A LOT of information on that story.

After the museum, we walked around for a bit longer. Dad bought a typical Swiss bell that they attach to cows.  Once we were through shopping, we went back to the hotel to relax and get ready for dinner.   We decided to go to a hotel recommended by Marco, up on a hill….  Well, dad didn’t know it was going to be such a hill, I think he was about ready to kick me down it when I said “We’re almost there” for the fifth time.  Once we reached the “summit”, we found out it was closed for a month.  HA.  I have a picture of dad’s face as you’ll see below.   We were at the top, looking out towards the Matterhorn.  We see this mountain, and dad says “Yeah, I think that’s the Matterhorn….. Yep.  That’s definitely it.”  I say “really?  It’s not even that big or… it’s not even that cool.”  Dad agreed.  But something just didn’t feel right.  Why would people make such a big deal about the Matterhorn?  I mean the mountain we were looking at sort of towered over the city, but it wasn’t like I expected.  Turned out it WAS NOT the Matterhorn and just a much smaller mountain beside it.  Looking back at the conversation though, we were so confident that we had seen the Matterhorn.  Can you imagine had we not figured it out?  “Don’t bother seeing the Matterhorn.  Its not even that big.”  To our defense, Zermatt was cloudy both days that we were there so we were never able to see the tip of the Matterhorn, but the following day we could see the base of what was the Matterhorn and it swallowed the mountain we were looking at.

We ate at an Italian restaurant for dinner and went back to our hotel room for some rest.  All in all, it was a good day.  I certainly laughed.

Pops lookin happy!
Zermatt
I love this pic of dad looking out at the helicopter.
Right after I told him the restaurant was closed.
“The Matterhorn” we saw…
The Matterhorn we saw, and THE Matterhorn.  🤷‍♀️🤷‍♂️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♂️💁‍♀️💁‍♂️ What we would have seen had it been visible.  Thank you Google Images for helping us out that night.  “Ugh… No.  That is NOT the Matterhorn.  I repeat.  We are NOT looking at the Matterhorn.”

May 31: St. Moritz

Thankfully we didn’t have to get on a train super early so we were able to enjoy  a little more Zermatt scenery.  We stood and watched clouds go over the Matterhorn, hoping to catch a glimpse of the entire mountain, but it never happened.  Someday.

We got on the train towards St. Moritz.  Such a long train ride which was totally fine, but quite long!  Eight hours with a fifteen minute break.  This was THE train ride though, Switzerland sure is beautiful and this train offered us sights we wouldn’t have otherwise seen.  The train itself was pretty spectacular with windows above and to the side of us, catching views in every direction.

St. Mortiz is a nice, clean city, but much different than Zermatt.  Felt a little “colder” to me, I didn’t feel as attached to the scenery as I did in other parts of Switzerland that I had seen (all three days worth).  The hotel seemed to be situated in the city center near several shops which sit on cobblestone streets.  Go figure, I made dad walk with me to a nearby sight, the Leaning Tower of St. Moritz. The Leaning Tower of St. Moritz was used as a church steeple built in 1570.  It has been restored five times and leans more than the Leaning Tower of Pisa.  Fun facts.

After that, there wasn’t much daylight left so we went back to our upgraded suite and caught some zzz’s.

Dad.  Typical.   On the train to St. Moritz.
Leaning Tower of St. Moritz

St. Moritz by evening

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